anton

Quote: Hmm, this just *got* to be a WD thing even if it something I never heard of before. This pic shows the status of my IBM-drives. UDMA5 on the primary without the use of some crappy utility. /Toby It does indeed show the *status* of your drives, but from what I see it doesn't allow you to change that status (don't hold this against me for I've never used XP, which this looks like). Now... that being said... drives can be configured to run at ATA 100, 66, or 33. Assuming this is a ATA100 drive we're talking about. You change this on the drive through a utility provided by the manufacturer. Just for fun, I went out to IBM's site and Maxtor's and lo and behold... they have these utilities! IBM - http://www.storage.ibm.com/techsup/hddtech/welcome.htm IBM Feature Tool (version 1.20)........ Switch the Ultra DMA mode (replaces the IBMATASW utility) Maxtor - http://www.maxtor.com/softwaredownload/Maxtor_Downloads.htm UDMA Update --- Procedure for changing from UDMA/66 to UDMA/100 on DiamondMax 60 and DiamondMax VL 30 drives This is NOT a WD thing. Why is this done? I assume because some older mobos might not like it if you stick an ATA100 drive in when they don't support it. You might never have had to do this, or reason to check because your drives seemed to be operating as rated, but this feature does indeed exist.

Quote: Hmmm..more and more i'm beginning to feel a distrust towards western digital. I mean come on ..i need to set UDMA 5 in some software program . That's odd to me at least. But they're drives are reliable, so I'll give them that. This is not a WD thing. Every manufacturer provides this method as a way of enabling UDMA 5, at least every manufacturer I've seen. It's also not a full "soft"ware thing either; when you change the DMA setting on the drive you hear a distinct click and a full power cycle is required for the change to take effect. Point being, it's no reason to distrust WD

Here's something that hasn't been mentioned... is ata100 enabled on the drive itself? This is something that must be done by booting up w/ a special WD disk and running their utility. This can all be downloaded on their site. You MUST use the WD utility I believe, as every manufacturer has their own. Go download and run it and see if the drive is set up for dma 5 (ata100). -Anton

I guess you can live w/ it for only so long... I've finally gotten utterly sick of the advertisements that bombard me on the web. That being said, can anyone recommend a good freeware ad blocker program to run on Win2k w/ IE? I'd love to finally get rid of those darn things that I never click on anyway... Thanks, -anton

I'm retiring my PIII 500 and upgrading to a new Athlon 1.33 system. I know the best way to go w/ a new cpu/mb/ram is to reinstall everything from scratch. My question is this: what do I lose if I don't? Will Win2k be peaceful about this? Will my computer not work to its full potential? Any helpful comments appreciated. Thanks -anton

Nope, surprisingly (and trust me, I was really surprised) just reverting back to 5.5 worked fine on my system.

I noticed IE6 really hated any cookies, and I could not find an acceptable way of managing this problem so I just went back to 5.5. Doubt this had anything to do w/ the Wells Fargo problem though. Also, I noticed the same thing w/ the +s in Explorer when I had IE6.

Thank you all for the quick responses! I am now a much better informed shopper.

I'm building a new system soon and there's one question that's been bothering me. If I have a fan that's running at 40 dba and 2 that are running at 30 dba, does that mean I hear 100 dba of noise, or just 40? The #s are arbitrary, but basically do the volumes add up or does only the loudest one count?

For anyone using IE6... have you noticed that it really hates cookies? It won't take any cookies from any of my old websites, forums included, and there doesn't seem to be a way to change it other than setting the security level to low, which I really don't wanna do. Any ideas?

A friend of mine has the same processor as you, and had lockups at temperatures near 60 and higher. I would say this is the cause of your problems.

Could you give me the steps you took to install the Creative drivers/software and have them work w/ the H+? I attempted this earlier and had a lot of problems. Which driver/software version were you using? [This message has been edited by anton (edited 09 December 2000).]

If you install the Creative software I believe with the help of Remote Selector you could get your remote to work with it. However, last time I tried to install the Creative software on top of the H+ drivers it errored out on setup and told me that it couldn't find a version of the DXR3 drivers running. Have you gotten this to work before?

What operating system and driver versions are you using? I'm in Win2k running version 2.0 drivers and working on this exact same problem...

I believe I have isolated my problem. I have been using a 4-pin s-video to rca adapter rather than a 7-pin. Would this make a difference? Does the Hollywood+ require a 7-pin s-video adapter for the TV-out? -Anton