Bursar

Also, I'm fairly sure that if you have an ATA66 and an ATA100 drive sharing the same IDE port, they'll both run at the slower speed.

Had you been into the BIOS and changed the boot order of things so that CD was the first first device listed?

Why not just boot from the 2K CD in the first place? It will let you create/delete partitions and format them as you wish. Much less hassle

Yup, on second reading, you're right. Oops. :x

I'm not attacking anyone. It just seemed logical to me that if a supplier is trying to sell you something that you don't understand, then you ask them to ask explain it. If they can't explain it, then you don't really want to give them your money. Asking questions of the support department before you buy anything is a good idea upto a point. Some compaines will rush round to get you anything you need, just so they get your business. Once they have your money, that's when you find out what they're really like. Asking them if they can put you in touch with a couple of existing (preferably long term) customers would be a better bet. The other customers will be able to give you a much better insight to the ability (or otherwise) of the host to sort out problems.

No offence, but wouldn't you be better asking the host? If they can't explain what these things are, then they probably aren't the right host for you

Hmm, can't say I've suffered from that. The only times something similar happens is when the refresh rates and resolutions change. Then it takes a bit of tweaking and everything is sorted again. I don't use power saving on my monitor as it just annoys me. Normally, CRT monitors can take a few minutes to warm up once they've been switched off. During this time it can appear as if the screen geometry is out, but it should settle down again. My Iiyama 17" monitor is about 5 years old and perfectly remembers all its settings whilst it is switched off. Even after being away and leaving the monitor off for a couple of weeks, it's fine when I switch it on again. You won't be able to reconfigure your monitor 'in a very small amout of clicks', as it is the monitor that is out, and not Windows. Windows has no idea what the geometry settings for your monitor are, and it can't control them.

But I bet it still ships with Solitaire and MineSweeper

I don't have an answer for you I'm afraid, but have a look in the forums over at: www.arcadecontrols.com They have a specific video forum, and you'll likely find what you need in there

It's probably caused by your video drivers. Clean them all out and re-install them (you might want to download the latest detonators depending which version you currently have).

What kind of limit are you after? The maximum number of IP addresses you can assign to a network card, the maximum number of IP addresses within a particular subnet, the number of addresses you can have in total, or something completely different? A bit more info would be useful.

I'm not knocking the Norton solution, but I'm not familiar with the Norton firewall, so I don't know what (if any) alerts it gives you when apps try to access the net. I know ZoneAlarm does give you pop-ups which is why I suggested it.

Is your ISP blocking ports?

Can you install the ZoneAlarm firewall software on it? When any applicaiton tries to connect to the Internet for the first time, ZoneAlarm will pop up a box asking if the application should be allowed to connect. You should then be able to figure out what it is that's causing the problem.

Is there a CD in the drive when it reports the error? If so, it's possible the CD has some copy protection on it, and Windows can't indentify parts of the CD as actually containing useful data. If you're not actually having problems with it, I wouldn't worry too much.

I'm no expert on this either, as I use firewire on both my PC and DV camcorder to transfer data. I guess you could always get a card that has AV in. Not sure if these exist either though. A TV card or something might be your next best bet, as you could hook the camera up to that. Again, not sure if these are available in PC Card format.

I really wouldn't bother trying any hacks that might enable you to overclock your CPU. I have an Intel 850 board, and although I would like the option of overclocking, I prefer the rock solid stability that this board gives me. That's not to say that overclocking will cause your machine to become unstable (if you do it sensibly), but Intel boards are very much like the nVidia reference video cards. They work, they do what is expected of them, but performance is very mediocre. Third party boards offer much better performance, and generally have extra features. Consider the Intel boards to be a 'here you go other manufacturers, this is a board that works, so you can see how to build your own' affair. Enough rambling, the upshot is that you will need to replace the mobo if you want to overclock.

I had an old Yamamha CD-RW that died on me. I was merrily using it, and then for no apparant reason, it just stopped working. IIRC something happened to the laser. You could probably get it fixed, but if it's out of warranty, you're likely to better off buying a new one.

Can you not fit a second network card? Sounds like the easiest solution in the long run.

Probably because you asked for a replacement CD. For all they know, you may have lost the case with the key on it as well.

IIRC the master browser is determined by all sorts of bizarre logic. Each operating system (9x, NTW, NTS, 2K etc) has a point score, with NTW being higher than 9x, and NTS being higher than NTW, and there's other stuff that goes on in the background too. At the end of all t hese calculations, you end up with a master browser. Needless to say, on a peer-to-peer network where you have several similarly configured machines, you end up with a fight for control as several PCs are likely to have the same score. Take a look through your event log, you should it has loads of "PC-XX thinks it is the master browser, but my dad's bigger than your dad, so I'm gonna fight ya for it" - OK, so I may have para-phrased that last bit Near the end of this link is a more accurate description [/url]

It's downloading now, but unfortunately I'm gonna be away so I won't get to play it until tomorrow night.

Have you tried emptying out the Temporary Internet files? Does IE try to connect to a web site when you open it, or does it open to a blank page? You can speed up loading no end by starting with a blank page.

I think you're getting slightly bent out of shape there. Ofcourse it's a joke. There's also a website somewhere that claims to own the : ) smiley, and they were selling them off. The price was $0.00, but not everyone got it. There were loads of complaints from people who couldn't tell it was a joke. I just tried searching for the site but couldn't find it. Maybe someone else has a link to it? In the meantime you'll have to excuse me, as I am also off to patent some ridiculous things, including a vast range of other unclaimed smilies

That's me corrected then