Hate googlegear bro.

They dropped the price 26 bucks before my sale went throught, so i had to cancel and wait till Friday to get the new CPu

Got a Western Digital 80GB 2MB cache drive yesterday :P

Logitech MX700 mouse.

First time I had this mouse I didn't like it.

Now I cannot part with it.

Got a Philips webcam and adapter to use in my telescope...all I need now is a way of either getting a really long USB cable or some wireless doohicky to connect it up to my desktop from the back garden ;(

Rgds
AndyF

cdrom drive
370 heatsink/fan

for an old celron 366 system.

A couple more to add to mine:

SB Audigy 2 - To replace a dead Audigy 1
Maxtor 120GB SATA HD - Well work paid for it and by the time it made it into the work machine it was an 80GB ATA100 drive

had to replace my crappy p4 2.5g cad station with a dual 2.6g xeon station.
the wildcat vp 970 graphics cards is quite disappointing i think
still tweaking on it

Got a Lexar 64MB USB drive. $20 after that $10 rebate.

lets ee today!


got some spare parts so i need to buy!

1 USB card
(for a old celeron 366 system - soon to be a cahce dns) - no mouse are and uses ancietn fat keyboard plug)

Possibly i p4, prob 2.4 for some spare parts already got a

p4s533 / 8500 radeon/ 512 pc2100 / 40g HD lying around might as well put it to use.

new case for it.


cdrom drive


dam, my list just got more expensive!

(quick copy paste from another thread :o)

I just bought and can recommend the Belkin Nostromo n45 Dual Analog USB GamePad. It can be purchased (at the time of this post) in the US for under $16 shipped free from buy.com. Each and every one of the 13 buttons (and even 8 way digipad) can (with the latest v2.6 drivers which are digitally signed by Microsoft) be bound to almost any (if not every) in game function.

My only complaint with it so far is that the analog pads are a bit close together, such that if you have the left one full right, and the right one full left, your thumbs might bump together, though the pads don't.

And, in case you were wondering, you can custom bind which axis goes to which analog pad. This means, you can bind the x axis to the left pad, and the y axis to the right pad. Which means you can drive the car like a remote controll RC car, one only steers left and right, the other only accelerates/brakes. I set it this way and also have two buttons set for accelerateing/braking. Works great.

Just grabbed a p4 2.4a (400mhz)

overclocked to 3.2 NO problems on air!!!

yea baby!!!!

Stinks that the 3.2 are coming out June 24th i beleive - now i can't say i got a cpu n one else has!! darn it!

I got the Philips Dynamic Edge last week.

woo hoo!

water cooling parts arrived - now waiting on my RAD and some water wetter and i am offffffff!

some pics (around 100 kb each)


Yes the North bridge is exposed the hook that holds the heatsink snapped - so got to solder it back on and make a bracket to hold the NB water block on

CPU and thermale take active cooler on the ram.




Vid Card






both with a hose

Since yesterday was payday and I had to get something, I decided to get an interim graphics card until Doom III/Half-Life 2 come out

I purchased an A-bit Siluro FX 5600 DT 256MB card. It's not the fastest nor the slowest card on the block but it's supports AGP 8x on my Canterwood board 8)

BTW, I work for a local Aopen Distributor on the left coast and have been testing an engineering sample of their latest Canterwood motherboard, the AX4C Max II. This is a really nice board, it does correct the issues that the initial board had, which were corrected via BIOS updates, but the only thing I'm gonna let Aopen America know about is the space between the P4 CPU socket and the DIMM's sockets. They re-arranged the CPU socket so it's a bit closer to them now and my Zalman copper flower bloom actually touches the module in DIMM slot 1. Since I have heat spreaders on the modules there's no real problem but it's pretty darn close

^^^^

the ti4600 has been beting the 5600 - u could of gotten a better temp card


but anyways


yeah Alec - the rad i orderd it is supposed to be 2-3 day delivery worldwide but 1-5 days to ship!

i want it darn it

and the fans in my case i am keeping

i got 3 x 80mm on the back - 2x 80mm on the front and one on the side panel blowing in around about the vid card and cpu.

now i am trying to get my design for a custom ram cooling for the g4 using fans instread of water - should be interesting - now, if i cna remeber how to use AutoCAD. will save me some time tring to do it in Photoshop.


I would say Alec, on your new rig - try out water cooling - even if it is just on your vid card or just your cpu - they are SO easy to set up! - i was kind of worried @ first, but it is so simple!


P.S - u best be getting us some pics of that car once it is all done up! heck drive down to Costa Rica to show me

Yeah, well I just needed something until about the October timeframe

I'll be looking at getting a 2.6c or a 2.8c P4 CPU soon but not until I get the DDR400 memory. Kind of need that first or at the same time

lol


hate when u got to wait - u want somehting now, but u know u should wait - iam bad for that, but better now!

I don't know when it will happen, but what would be interesting is if game coders could find a way to use the extra CPU registers in 32-bit mode. I remember back in the day that there were a few enterprising coders for the C128 that was able to hack into the second CPU, this was a faster Z80, for extra things run in the background. Wish I could remember the apps, but there were very few of them for sure

Perhaps there will be something akin to HT on the Athlon64's, who knows

New game rig (replaced celeron 1,3 geforceMX).

ASUS P4P800
Celeron 2,4
2x 512MB transcend PC2700
80GB 6Y080L0
Radeon 9600 128MB

I Overclocked the celeron to 3,2 just to notice that the side wall of my case that the mobo is screwed on to is getting quite warm (running on stock cooling) The CPU temp is 40°C (47 on load) and the MB temp is 43°C?
Gotta get and active cooled northbridge.

Faster than a P4 3,06 according to sandra
It's still good for 9663 3dmarks, but still gotta optimize the ram/chipset timing. Sure to go around the magic 10000.

P.S. definetly need more cooling. 8)

nice nice

well really a celeron it may haev the faster Ghz speed but it is limited in what can go through it i beleive was said it another thread.

if it is only @ 40c u got no worries, once it hits 60, then worry.

After running seti@home for 3 units in a row:

stock @2,4GHz the board has 45°C and the CPU 48°C
OCed @3,2GHz the board has 49°C and the CPU 47°C

I've added an extra fan to suck the hot air out at the back.

The side of the case still gets kinda warm. I'ts a nice feature in the winter, but now we have 30+°C here.

The second thing that wories me is that the air that comes out of the PSU is much warmer than the one that is sucked out of the case.

I took an ambient thermometer to measure the temp. The air that comes out of the case has 35°C the air that comes out of the PSU has 41°C

The air that comes out of my old Celeron's 1,3 PSU has 32°C

The ambient temp in my room is 30°C and the outside temp is 26°C. The 4 °C have been generated by my new computer over the night (at stock speed).

Gonna OC the bastard cos I like sauna

I would install better cooling, but I can't open the case cos it'll void my 2year waranty. It was enough pain to install a secod fan through the psu opening. It's like fixing your car's engine through the exhaust.

This is why I prefer to build my own boxes, I can do whatever the hell I want to do with them I provide my own warranty so I also have to eat anything that I destroy as well

As for the rise in temp from the PSU, it's because of the OC'ing. This causes more power consumption hence more heat from the PSU

But I'm running not overclocked now and PSU temps are almost the same. Maybe a cheap 250W PSU just labeled as 300W.

I ordered the components to build my own box, I too hate those prebuilt stuff. But I got the case and a LG 52x burner for almost the same price as all the other components alone. I asked if I still had 1 year component waranty if I open the case and they said it will void all waranty.

I probably won't be able to keep my hands from opening the box after a month or two.

But if something fails it'll be expensive

Who did you get this system from?

that is SUCH BS if you open your case it will void the warrenty - so if u want a rma upgrade you have to send your WHOLE case to the shop

that is BS

Who did this syetm for you, PLEASE let me know

did they put sticks on the joints to say if it is broken the warrenty is void?

let me know full details, sure there is a way around it

P.S have u been over to
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/index.php?s=

may want tro check it our if your getting into O/C'n alot.

Building your own is better, you stil usually get a 1 year warrenty @ min. on all parts you buy, - unless it is OEM packaging.

The PSU - what you need to look @ is the 3.3 + 5v output - that is what matters, not the 250w or the 300w.

if it is not on your PSU - but u cant tell cause u cant open your case - but if anything search the web for your PSU to see what the specs are.